A material world - Everything you need to know about fabrics and raw materials

Although natural materials like cotton and silk dominated the textile industry for centuries, they have been increasingly replaced in recent decades by synthetic materials like polyester. However, demand for clothing made from natural materials is growing again due to their comfort and durability.

In this article, I'll explain everything there is to know about the different materials used in the clothing industry, their raw materials, and their advantages and disadvantages. First, we can distinguish between natural and synthetic materials. Natural materials include cotton, linen, silk, and wool. Examples of synthetic materials include polyester, acrylic, and polyamide. There are also semi-synthetic or hybrid materials, such as viscose, in which a natural raw material is chemically processed.

Natural materials

Natural materials are biodegradable and can be divided into plantbased fabrics and fabrics derived from animal origin.

Plant materials

Cotton : Cotton is the most common natural fiber used in clothing and is extracted from the cotton plant. Cotton is comfortable against the skin due to its breathable, soft, and skin-friendly properties. One environmental drawback is that cotton production requires a lot of water (an average of around 2,500 liters for one T-shirt).

Linen : Linen is made from flax and is light, strong, and breathable, making it ideal for summer clothing. A disadvantage of linen is that it wrinkles easily.

Animal materials

Silk : Silk is a delicate fabric with a luxurious appearance and is produced by silkworms. A disadvantage of silk is that it is very fragile and requires a special detergent and washing program.

Wool : Wool is a versatile fiber, usually sourced from sheep. It is self-cleaning and therefore requires less frequent washing. It also has insulating and heat-regulating properties, keeping you warm in winter and cool in summer. Disadvantages of wool include shrinkage and felting if not washed properly, and some wool types are scratchy. Besides regular sheep's wool, there are several other types of wool, such as:

Merino : comes from the Merino sheep, which is specially bred to produce the highest quality wool. Merino wool is fine, soft, and non-itchy.

Mohair : a shiny, hairy wool from the Angora goat, which can be prickly on the skin.

Cashmere : comes from the cashmere goat and is a very soft, luxurious type of wool.

Leather : Leather is an animal material made from animal hides, such as cows or pigs. Suede is the same material as leather, except that the inner side of the hide is used and roughened, giving it a softer texture. Leather is breathable, conforms to your body, and is durable.

A disadvantage of animal-based materials, especially wool, is their susceptibility to moths. This problem is easily prevented by placing sachets of lavender or cedarwood balls among your woolen clothing.

Synthetic materials

Synthetic materials are man-made from petroleum and other chemicals. They are often cheaper, stronger, and easy to maintain, but less breathable than natural fabrics, which can make clothing feel constricting. Furthermore, they are not biodegradable.

Polyester : Strong, dries quickly and hardly wrinkles, but does not breathe, which makes you sweat faster.

Acrylic : Similar in appearance to wool, but does not breathe and pills more quickly.

Polyamide (or nylon): Strong, elastic and water-repellent.

Polyurethane (PU or vegan leather): Looks like leather but has a much shorter lifespan and is essentially just plastic. It doesn't breathe and doesn't conform to the body—unlike leather.

Semi-synthetic materials

Semi-synthetic materials, also called hybrid materials, are made from natural raw materials but undergo a chemical process.

Viscose : Also known as rayon, it is made from wood pulp that is spun into yarn through a chemical process. It feels soft and smooth and is pleasant against the skin, but is less durable than cotton.

Modal : An improved version of viscose, made from beechwood. Modal is softer, stronger, and more resistant to shrinkage and wear than regular viscose. It also retains its beauty longer.

Lyocell : A sustainable alternative to viscose, often sold under the brand name Tencel. It is made from wood pulp in an environmentally friendly way. Lyocell is breathable and has antibacterial properties.

Acetate : A shiny, lightweight substance made from wood pulp and acetic acid, it is often used for linings or as an additive to silk to strengthen it.

Cupro : A silky fabric made from cotton waste, cupro drapes softly and has moisture-regulating properties.

Material blends

Many garments today consist of a blend of different materials. For example, a small percentage of elastane is often added to jeans for added comfort, polyester to make a fabric more affordable, or polyamide to wool to improve its strength. These combinations can enhance the functionality and lifespan of clothing, but they also make recycling more difficult. This makes separating and reusing these materials a sustainability challenge.

In short, the choice of materials plays a significant role in the quality, durability, and comfort of clothing. While natural materials are known for their breathability and biodegradability, synthetic fabrics are often stronger and easier to care for. By consciously choosing certain materials and understanding their impact, you can make more sustainable choices for your wardrobe.